SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on Apr 18, 2006 22:05:24 GMT 7
AEG Upgrade Guide(Part 1)
Introduction All brand new AEGs are capable of firing on average 270 fps with the exception of AEGs made by Classic Army which shoots around 330 fps in stock form. For most people this is more than sufficient. A highly upgraded AEG will not make you a better player because skill and experience are what matters. An upgraded gun is useless in the hands of a player who lacks basics. Common sense will dictate that you don't need a 400 fps AEG if you never play in an area larger than a hundred meter square. If you do a lot of close shooting, you don't want a hot gun because this game is supposed to be fun, not an exercise in hurting your pals. Keep your upgrades around 300fps for the short fields and you will still have a good time.
WARNING! If you have never work on an AEG gearbox then it is better to let professionals or other experienced players do it for you. So many things can go wrong during the process that you might end up with a broken AEG. If you truly want to do it anyway then at least do it under the supervision of a highly knowledgeable person so that he can help you out should you get stuck during the process.
Any upgrade will shorten the lifespan of the internals of the gun. That’s why supporting parts are necessary, so that you can ensure the long term functionality of the upgrade in your gun.
Basic mechanics of an AEG
When an AEG trigger is pulled the following sequence happens internally: 1. The motor powers a series of gears 2. Which winds and compresses a spring 3. Which in turn is connected to a piston and cylinder mechanism 4. When the spring is completely compressed by the motor, it is released and exerts force on the piston and cylinder mechanism 5. This in turn forces compressed air through a nozzle and onto a BB 6. Which in turn is propelled out of the gun Stock AEGs can deliver BB speeds of 240fps to 310fps (depending on brand) using a standard 0.2g BB. All this happens in less than 1 second.
JUST HOW POWERFUL IS 500FPS? A shot from a stock AEG will penetrate one side of a soda can easily. With 400fps, both sides can easily be penetrated by the BB and also penetrate the bottom center. Now with a 500fps AEG, a shot can penetrate a can from top to bottom (which is MUCH thicker than the sides) EASILY. Now imagine that impacting your uncovered skin. SO THINK BEFORE YOU UPGRADE!!!
(Part 2 next week)
(Note: Im posting this not to discourage anyone from upgrading because it will definitely give you an advantage. Just make sure you are responsible enough to know when and when not to shoot your gun. anyway I also saw this from the web and only modified some of it. Happy upgrading hehe)
|
|
SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on May 3, 2006 22:29:54 GMT 7
here's part 2
So many parts so little time (and money) Here’s a list of parts that you can buy upgraded versions of in pursuit of higher fps. You can buy them separately and create a very customized gearbox. Some parts manufacturers like Systema and Hurricane also sell a complete upgrade kit that is called FTK (Full Tune up Kit). They cost less than if you buy the parts separately but your options will be limited.
Remember, just because you upgrade your AEG with Systema parts, like bushings, gears, piston and the like, it doesn't mean your AEG is bulletproof! Upgrade parts can break just like the stock parts. A jammed BB in the barrel will lead to stripped Systema gears just as fast as stock Marui gears. And once a gear breaks, those little busted teeth shoot all over inside your gear box and could care less if they eat that brand new poly carbonate piston you just installed...
Air Nozzle The air nozzle is connected directly to the cylinder and is where the air shoots out of the gear box into the hop-up unit. After market air nozzle may improve air discharge but the increase in fps is very small.
Cylinder The cylinder is the unit where the air compression happens. There are several types of cylinders but the most important criteria in choosing the right one is its size. Basically, the longer the barrel of the gun, the bigger the volume of air needed to propel a BB out. So, the size of the cylinder has to increase accordingly. AEGs get their pressure and force only from the air being compressed in the cylinder. It is a specific volume of air that once compressed will want to return to its original volume. Therefore, if the volume of the barrel is larger than the volume of the cylinder then you will get a suction effect in the barrel. Let's say your piston and cylinder will push out 40 cubic centimeters of air and your barrel volume is 60 cubic centimeters. Your piston only has enough air to push the BB two-thirds way down the barrel. Two-thirds way down your BB will reach its maximum velocity and will travel on inertia alone. But in that last third the BB will act like a piston in reverse as it goes down the barrel and cause suction behind it. This suction will want to pull the BB back to its optimal position, two-thirds way down the barrel. Fortunately the BB will have enough inertia to still shoot out, however it will have a lower than optimal velocity because of the suction caused in the barrel will pull it back. In this respect an inner barrel that is too long will not be good.
So if you want the most velocity for your parts you should use a long barrel. However, if you do not have a cylinder that matches your barrel you will be losing velocity. So before you put a AK-47 barrel on your MP5, or a SG-1 bore-up cylinder in your G3 SAS, stop and think about what you need to do and how it will affect your performance.
|
|
SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on May 3, 2006 22:38:21 GMT 7
part 3
Gears There are a set of three gears inside the gear box responsible for moving the piston to compress the spring. They are Bevel Gear, Spur Gear, and Sector Gear. • Bevel Gear: Gear in direct contact with the motor. • Spur Gear: Wide flat gear that sits in the middle of the gearbox and between the bevel and sector gears. • Sector Gear: Gear that is in direct contact with the piston and responsible for pulling the piston back in order to compress the spring. The upgrade parts for the gears can be break down into three types of categories. • High Speed: Normally, you use them with stock AEG. This type of gear is designed to increase ROF. • Standard Ratio: They are the same as the standard ones come with the stock gun, but is tougher than the stock gears. • High Torque: They are stronger; their torque ratio is higher than stock in order to push stronger springs. They also reduce ROF so it is not necessary to use this type of gears if your gun is not pulling a very high rated spring. Inner Barrel The inner diameter of a stock inner barrel is 6.08mm. To upgrade your inner barrel you need to buy what is called a 'Tight Bore Inner Barrel whose inner diameter is 6.03mm or 6.04mm depending on brand. Because of that, it's even more imperative that you keep your barrel clean, well maintained and that you only use high quality BBs. That said, even a stock inner barrel could face problems if you don't take proper care of it.
Performance difference between the 6.03 and 6.04 is dismal so it’s not a big deal which brand you get. The biggest reason to install a tight bore inner barrel is to improve the accuracy of your gun because the fps increase is very small. You can get higher fps and accuracy increase by installing an inner barrel that is longer than your stock one and then installing a silencer to cover the extended inner barrel length from your gun. But make sure the silencer is long enough to cover the added inner barrel length otherwise your gun will look very strange. It is important to note that a tight bore inner barrel has less tolerance towards the quality of BBs, so you will have to use good quality BBs and never reuse BBs in order to avoid jamming.
Piston Head Upgraded piston head comes in Polycarbonate and Aluminum variety. They usually seal better so they will trap and compress air better thus increasing fps. There is a “Silent Type” piston head that comes with a bearing, and has an impact pad at the front of it to absorb the sound of the piston hitting the cylinder. A piston head with bearing when used in conjunction with a spring guide with bearing reduces strain on the spring. Less strain on spring means a longer spring life, and a more consistent muzzle velocity. Spring Guide The spring guide is attached to the rear part of the spring. Its function is to stabilize the spring and keep the spring in a tight and straight order as the spring compresses. Upgraded spring guides are usually made with tougher materials and some comes with bearings. When a spring compresses it also makes a twisting motion. On a spring guide without bearings, the spring will not be able to twist freely which puts more strain on the spring. A spring guide with bearing when used in conjunction with a piston head with bearing will result in longer spring life, and a more consistent muzzle velocity.
|
|
SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on May 5, 2006 18:30:39 GMT 7
part 4
Battery Airsoft batteries are usually made up from 1.2 volt cells. The standard battery size is 8.4v (7 cells), but 9.6v (8 celled) batteries are also common. They are available in small and large sizes. The small sizes fit easily in most guns, but large sizes hold a lot more power (typically up to about 3 times more).
Batteries are defined by 2 things, voltage and mAh. The voltage is basically rating the power of the battery; higher voltage will have more power to push stronger springs. The mAh is a measurement of endurance. The higher the number in milliamp hours, the longer the battery can supply the juice. As a general rule, a standard 8.4v 600mAh battery has enough juice for 1200-1500 rounds in stock AEGs while an 8.4v 1300mAh battery can do about 3000 rounds. In most cases, an 8.4v battery pack is more than enough to power an upgraded AEG. However, as the strength of the spring increases, the Rate Of Fire (ROF) will decrease. Higher voltage battery packs will be needed to avoid this ROF decline. Note though that higher voltage battery packs will put a lot of stress on your AEG's internals, decreasing the gun’s lifespan.
Batteries require discharging before recharging. If you recharge with some battery charge remaining in the battery you are contributing to the rapid decline of battery life span. The best way to discharge batteries is to use so-called "smart chargers" that can recognize when the battery is empty and when it is full. These chargers do cost a lot more than standard ones, but they are worth it in the long run. All batteries used in Airsoft need a longer first charge than subsequent charges. This is done to 'condition' the battery. Many batteries come with instructions regarding the required length of their first charge.
Ni-Cad batteries can benefit from regular discharging, although it is not absolutely essential unless you use exactly the same amount of power from them after each charge (for example - if you always use 70% of the juice available, then discharging is beneficial).
Ni-MH batteries do not require discharging after each use, but doing so won't hurt them. Increasing the voltage supplied to your AEG will result in an increased ROF, but can also increase stress to the gearbox. If there is a serious jam in the AEG, increased voltage will also make your fuse blow quicker (unless you don't have a fuse, in which case your electronics will fry faster). Higher capacity (mAh) does not make motors run faster than their normal speed, but gives them more juice for the motor to draw on when a greater resistance is present. The end result is that a faster rotation of the motor and system when under heavy load. For example, an 8.4v 2600mAh battery will give you a noticeably higher rate of fire in a heavily upgraded gun than an 8.4v 1300mAh pack, even though the voltages are the same. There will be almost no difference between these two packs in a stock AEG. Try it out. Alternatively, try putting an 8.4v 600mAh small type battery in a heavily upgraded AEG and listen to it struggle. Ni-Cad batteries discharge on a curve, which means that as the power gets used, it outputs that power at a lower rate until there is none left. The Ni-MH curve is a lot flatter. There is a very slight dip in available power near the start of their use, but then the output remains constant until the very end. It then dies fairly quickly.
It is best not to leave either type of battery charged during long periods of storage. Ni-Cad batteries will discharge automatically over time, which can result in battery damage if done repeatedly. Ni-MH batteries do the same, but they hold their charge for a much longer period of time (months as opposed to a week or so). It is also important that batteries are not stored TOTALLY dead i.e. dont leave the battery on the discharger too long, it'll kill it.
|
|
|
Post by intruder on May 7, 2006 8:39:14 GMT 7
dami nyan doc...kaya pala tumahas rank mo.hehehehe
|
|
SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on May 7, 2006 22:20:07 GMT 7
hehehe. habol ka sir. these tips are actually useful. dyan ko nga lang nalaman may timing pa dapat set ng gears
|
|
Mr.S
Moderator
קלע סער
Posts: 672
|
Post by Mr.S on May 10, 2006 20:17:53 GMT 7
Wow! Ang tindi talaga ni Doc. Very informative and honest- just the way I like it.
|
|
SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on May 11, 2006 8:12:43 GMT 7
hehe kaso baka mwalan na trabaho gunsmith (wag naman sana). its just for those who want to tinker with their guns
|
|
Mr.S
Moderator
קלע סער
Posts: 672
|
Post by Mr.S on May 12, 2006 7:58:58 GMT 7
Actually some so called "gunsmiths" really aren't that qualified. For example when I was building my sleeper MP5, a gunsmith in one of the hobby shop in Manila "advised" me to get the M4 Bore-Up kit because it was basically the same daw with the MP5 kit. I told him that the nozzle was not the same but he insisted that all I had to do was swap my stock nozzle with the one that came with the kit. At this point I took out my stock MP5 nozzle and pointed out to him that its not only the physical orientation of the nozzle thats different, the bore diameter is also different. Mas maliit ang diameter ng butas ng stocker, hindi siya papasok sa Bore Up cylinder head! The "gunsmith" was so sure of his "knowledge" na muntik na niya akong ipahamak, imagine galing pa ako ng Pampanga tapos mali lang pala ang ibebenta sakin!
Then there was this one time that a "gunsmith" from Manila advised me to get the Type 0 cylinder for my MP5. I told him that my barrel length was only 388 mm but he said na "lahat sa team namin naka Type 0 cyinder, pati nga yung mga naka shorty na M4 ok naman." I told him that cylinder types have a minimum and maximum barrel lenghts pero it seems na hindi siya naniniwala sa laws ng physics. Ang tinding gunsmith nito!
|
|
SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on May 12, 2006 16:53:39 GMT 7
Actually some so called "gunsmiths" really aren't that qualified. For example when I was building my sleeper MP5, a gunsmith in one of the hobby shop in Manila "advised" me to get the M4 Bore-Up kit because it was basically the same daw with the MP5 kit. I told him that the nozzle was not the same but he insisted that all I had to do was swap my stock nozzle with the one that came with the kit. At this point I took out my stock MP5 nozzle and pointed out to him that its not only the physical orientation of the nozzle thats different, the bore diameter is also different. Mas maliit ang diameter ng butas ng stocker, hindi siya papasok sa Bore Up cylinder head! The "gunsmith" was so sure of his "knowledge" na muntik na niya akong ipahamak, imagine galing pa ako ng Pampanga tapos mali lang pala ang ibebenta sakin! Then there was this one time that a "gunsmith" from Manila advised me to get the Type 0 cylinder for my MP5. I told him that my barrel length was only 388 mm but he said na "lahat sa team namin naka Type 0 cyinder, pati nga yung mga naka shorty na M4 ok naman." I told him that cylinder types have a minimum and maximum barrel lenghts pero it seems na hindi siya naniniwala sa laws ng physics. Ang tinding gunsmith nito! hehehe. marami talaga nagmamarunong lalo na pag may bibilin ka sa kanila. in our team tulong tulong sa pagaayos ng baril kaya even our gunsmith may katulong minsan. mas maganda kasi marami nagiisip kesa isa lang. hehe ;D sir kung paputol ko aps2 ko then pathread din ng silencer nya, pwede ba dyan sa shop mo?
|
|
Mr.S
Moderator
קלע סער
Posts: 672
|
Post by Mr.S on May 12, 2006 21:09:20 GMT 7
Pakita natin sa machinist ko. Siya ang makapag sasabi kung pwede sa mga makina namin.
|
|
SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on May 13, 2006 0:33:54 GMT 7
Pakita natin sa machinist ko. Siya ang makapag sasabi kung pwede sa mga makina namin. ok sir tawagan kita pag mkapunta ko sa shop mo. tnx
|
|
SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on May 13, 2006 0:36:08 GMT 7
part 5
Cylinder Head Stock cylinder head is constructed in nylon with a brass nozzle. Upgraded cylinders are typically all metal. Being all metal makes them a lot more capable of withstanding the pressure and impacts from higher-powered springs, without deforming or being damaged. Some even come equipped with a rubber impact pad on the back of the cylinder head that soaks up some of the impact energy.
Gear Box A stock gear box will not be able to withstand the stress of upgrades that regularly exceed 400 fps and will subsequently crack. You will need a Reinforced gear box for upgrades that high.
Motor Almost all new released AEG in the past year comes equipped with a motor that is the equivalent of Tokyo Marui’s EG1000 motor. So, unless you own an older model AEG whose motor still uses the equivalent of Tokyo Marui’s EG700 or you broke your current motor, there is no reason to buy a new one. Even then, the ROF increase between EG700 to EG1000 is not groundbreaking and there are other ways to increase your ROF in this guide. Shims Shims are the thin washers that go in between the bushings and the gear box. Their function is to ensure that there is no "side-to-side" play on the gears, as to not undermine their durability as side to side play can make them more prone to stripping and other damage. Be careful not to over shim which can result in the restricted movement of the gears.
Bushings Bushings are the small cylinders that hold the gears in place in the gearbox. The most basic, common sense upgrade is to replace your stock plastic bushings with metal bushings. The stock bushings are what will cause your AEG to fail almost as fast as holding your trigger down all the time. There are several different types, metal oil and oil less, Teflon plastic, and bearing. "Oilless" refers to metal upgraded bushings with micro-pores that allow more oil to lubricate the bushing/gear axle mesh during operation. "Bearing bushings" - Utilize small ball bearings to decrease friction. You only use metal bushings if you are pulling a high powered spring, Teflon plastic are usually stock in some brands and tend to wear out over time, use bearing bushings when you want an average powered fast firing AEG.
|
|
Mr.S
Moderator
קלע סער
Posts: 672
|
Post by Mr.S on May 16, 2006 6:54:16 GMT 7
"A stock gear box will not be able to withstand the stress of upgrades that regularly exceed 400 fps and will subsequently crack. You will need a Reinforced gear box for upgrades that high."
So true lalu na kareng V2 gearbox, regardless nung high end o ACM. Even the so called "reinforced" gearbox (I'm personally using a Systema now) are not that strong. Its strange kasi walang noticeable na reinforcement sa part where the gearbox usually fails- sa harap kung saan yung cylinder head is held into place. I have friend in Manila who has gone through two of the so called reinforced gearbox already and he's only using SP140s. It seems that the V2 gearbox was not designed to opperate reliably beyond 400 FPS.
|
|
SNIPERACE
Global Moderator
Violence is the first refuge of the incompetent.
Posts: 1,209
|
Post by SNIPERACE on May 16, 2006 21:50:00 GMT 7
oo nga sir. but if we use stronger springs that will be the set back. be ready fo a new gearbox hehe. thats why most of the games abroad have fps limits of 350-380 for assault and 500 for snipers. dito lang satin sobra lakas ng beng beng.
|
|